DRYWALL And Love Have 4 Things In Common

The purpose of the next guide would be to help the beginner do-it-yourselfer accomplish his/her first drywall repair, with reduced steps, tools and materials. Since almost all of the homes I repair are in the Cincinnati, Ohio, area, I am going to focus this discussion toward conventional drywall, finished with a smooth texture. If your home’s walls are created from plaster, I wouldn’t recommend attempting a repair yourself. With plaster, it is advisable to leave it to a professional professional.

Drywall repair is a straightforward process that virtually any homeowner can figure out how to do. Considering that homes today are designed with lumber inferior to that of generations past, movement of drywall from warping and shrinking in the home’s framing causes a variety of drywall-related problems. Therefore, many homeowners should repair corners, cracks, screw pops, tape seams, along with other drywall imperfections that accrue over time. Furthermore, damage from water intrusion, household accidents and normal deterioration necessitate a periodic drywall repair to help keep the walls looking good, especially before they are painted.

Drywall Repair Tools and Materials

Go to your local do-it-yourself store and buy:

(1) 4″ Drywall Knife
(1) 12″ STAINLESS Mud Pan
(1-qt) All-Purpose Joint Compound
(1) Drywall Sanding Sponge
(1-qt) Latex-Based Drywall Primer
(1) 2″ Angle-Tipped Paint Brush
1. Depending on the level of drywall repairs required, remove an appropriate quantity of joint compound (or “mud,” as it is commonly referred to) from the plastic tub using your 4″ drywall knife and scrape it off into your 12″ mud pan. The theory here is to help keep the joint compound fresh so that is doesn’t dry out-so only take as much mud out since you can use within 10 minutes. Otherwise, “chunks” of drywall mud develop, making your drywall repair much more difficult.

2. Briefly work the drywall mud backwards and forwards in your pan a few times-like you would knead bread dough. This removes air from the mud in reducing bubbles when you stick it on the wall.

3. Apply a thin coat of drywall mud to the crack or dent. Use the knife to scrape the mud flush with the surrounding surface of the drywall. It is better to apply 2 or 3 3 thin coats of mud (allowing each coat to dry in between applications) versus one thick coat. One of the most common mistakes I see with drywall repair is mud that’s applied too thick. This rarely results in an excellent surface and makes for more time and mess through the sanding phase.

4. Allow the mud to dry. Dry time is highly influenced by type and brand of compound, thickness and amount of mud application, along with ambient temperature and humidity of the area. If you need to accelerate dry time, grab a hair dryer to dry the region (as seen in this picture of my craftsman Drew).

5. Once the drywall mud is completely dry, place a drop cloth below the region of drywall repair, as you’re going to create a mess next! Use your sanding sponge to sand the area flush with the remaining wall. Use lighter pressure as you finish to avoid gouging or scratching up your projects. Some people prefer to have a buddy hold a shop vacuum up to the region to suck up all the drywall dust while they work. If you decide to do this be sure to have a drywall dust or HEPA filter installed-otherwise you’ll just find yourself blowing the dust through the entire room.

6. Have parede de drywall em sao caetano do sul or cloth to wipe down the drywall repair to eliminate any remaining dust. You can even work with a wet cloth or sponge to “wet sand” the area to get an extra smooth effect, if desired.

7. Using your small paintbrush, apply a light coat of primer to the drywall repair. This can seal the joint compound, hide the repaired area, and prepare it to simply accept paint.

8. When painting the drywall repair, I would recommend painting an entire portion of the wall, if possible. Although you may have gone over paint from when the wall was originally painted, or purchased new paint with same formula because the original, it is unlikely to match. Walls age and collect dirt after a while, altering their appearance and color. Hence, if you can paint a whole section of the wall, up to corner or seam, the difference of “new” versus “old” paint is less visible.